Where in the World was zman? Part 4

It's been a hell of a twelve day run for your boy from the Neck. I will regale you with tales of my comings and goings over the next few days. My last installment left off at bedtime on Friday.

On Saturday we woke up bright and early, had breakfast, and went over to the WDC. We were loaded onto a van and hauled over some truly bumpy terrain to a dinosaur dig site where we spent about four hours helping the WDC staff dig stuff up.

The big black thing on the right of zson is a Camarasaurus leg bone, I think it was a femur. zson found a small piece of Camarasaurus tendon which they let him keep along with some fossilized plant matter and "float bone" (random tiny bone fragments) that I found. He was thrilled. Then they loaded us up again and took us even further out onto a ridge that used to be below an ocean. It's littered with fossilized sea life. We found and kept a bunch of clam and squid fossils, then went back to the museum for a behind-the-scenes tour including a Maiasaura mid-assembly and various pieces of Jimbo the Supersaurus. He's 106 feet long.

Then we got a guided museum tour. It was dope, as the kids say. Here's a Camarasaurus:

And here's the best Archaeopteryx in the US:

And here's an explanation of the Archaeopteryx:

Then we headed back to Casper. On Sunday we fished again with great success including this 20 inch rainbow trout.

Then we went back to Denver on Monday. zson was too pooped to do much other than swim in the hotel's saltwater pool and play with other kids at a McDonald's playground. I guess he needed some kid interaction after six days with just me. Then we flew home. I read "The Boilerplate Rhino" by David Quammen through most of the flight and it's perfect airplane material, especially after our week in the field. It's a collection of Quammen's essays from Outside magazine. They're all about 5-6 pages long so it's easy to stop and start the book, and the one about T. rex fossils in Montana was particularly resonant given recent events.

None of this is a humblebrag (except for that last photo of the fish). I have no idea how to parent properly. My guiding principle when I'm faced with a decision about my kids is to avoid doing what my parents would have done. So rather than have him watch TV all summer I took zson to a place I've never been to do stuff I wanted to do as a kid (and as an adult, truth be told). I'm just trying to get things right.

Hopefully zson will look back at this trip fondly. I know I will.

Where in the World was zman? Part 3

It's been a hell of a twelve day run for your boy from the Neck. I will regale you with tales of my comings and goings throughout the week. My last installment left off on Friday.

The drive from Casper to Thermopolis takes two hours, the first eighty minutes of which are pretty boring. The final forty minutes through the Wind River Canyon are about as beautiful as any drive I’ve ever taken. Once you get to Shoshoni you turn north and drive along a lake which turns into the Bighorn River. Then you enter a canyon of multicolored rocks and flowers with the road right up against the river. The ride back south was even more beautiful. I could spend all day driving back and forth through that canyon in a convertible and never get tired of it.

Like Casper, Thermopolis is also a funny little place. The population is about 3,500 but it has a world-class dinosaur museum (the Wyoming Dinosaur Center or WDC), an amphitheater and the world's largest natural mineral hot springs. There's a tannery called Merlin's Hide Out. They sell all sorts of cool stuff like this:

Thermopolis also has one pretty cool restaurant with a brewery. But it also has this building with some uncool masonry (I hope it was built before the 1930s) and a Ron Paul sign.

Despite its libertarian streak, Thermopolis felt much younger, newer, and hopeful than Casper. I saw no cowboy hats or big belt buckles (although I did see a guy in boots with spurs and he was wearing them genuinely with no irony, unlike TR during his stint in the West Village). Most people were decked out in well-worn technical outdoor gear but with the swagger of a bow hunter, not a granola. The only time I smelled weed on the whole trip was by the men’s room at the One Eyed Buffalo (the site of my only real meal in Thermopolis—they make a hell of a prime rib). If Thermopolis was a singer it would be Sturgill Simpson.



At some point we had lunch. zson’s diet consists essentially of pizza, mac and cheese, and chicken tenders/nuggets so we had a fair number of meals at McDonald’s because (a) Wyoming pizza probably is not right and (b) there aren’t a ton of dining options in towns of 3,500 people. Thermopolis has a McDonald’s but more importantly it’s right next door to Ava’s Silver and Rock Shop. Much like Marls circa 1994, the shop’s outwardly dumpy appearance hides some amazing stuff inside. The owners (Eddie and Ava) are a husband and wife team of grumpy elderly geologists. Eddie discovered the Avaceratops (he named it after Ava) and he’s happy to tell the story. He’s also happy to tell you how the people running the Wyoming Dinosaur Center don’t know what they’re doing (apparently he and Ava helped get the dig sites started and were dismissed from their post sometime thereafter—Eddie is passionately pissed about this and Ava interrupted him at one point to merely say “It’s a sore point” and then got back to cleaning fossils). And man, do they have fossils. Cheap fossils! You can buy fossil fish for $10 to $20 and they’re beautifully perfect and decently big. They also have Spinosaurus teeth, shark teeth (for a dollar each), all sorts of plants (fifty cents a pop) and fish, bones from various sauropods, and an amazing lower jaw from a Mososaur. My biggest regret from the trip is not going back to their store on the way out of town to buy a fossil or two.

Then we checked into our hotel and learned that the air conditioning in our room was broken. I can say with great authority that there's nothing sadder than a Lasko box fan in your window on a 90 degree day. It was like freshman year in Monroe all over again. So we went over to Star Plunge where we swam in the hot springs, and this happened:

We played Bananagrams for a bit and had dinner, then we went back to Star Plunge to swim in the hot spring until it closed at 9 pm (once you pay you can leave and come back anytime that day). Then we slept a sweaty sleep.

Stay tuned for further installments later this week.

Where in the World was zman? Part 2

It's been a hell of a twelve day run for your boy from the Neck. I will regale you with tales of my comings and goings over the next few days. My last installment left off on Tuesday.

On Wednesday, zson and I flew to Denver and got a rental car. I knew we would have a good time when zson got in the car, a standard-size relatively popular five-passenger Japanese SUV, and said "Is this whole car made out of plastic?" I'm raising him right. I tuned the radio to Sirus's 70's channel as we started to drive north. About 10 minutes later zson said "We need to listen to country music" and he was correct. Just as walking around New York City with hiphop in your earphones can change the way you view a song and the city, country and western music sets the mood perfectly for the Rocky Mountain states. Four hours later we were in Casper, WY where we stayed in a cabin along the North Platte River.

Wyoming is strangely beautiful in late June. Driving north on I25, the prairie swells into mountains and the whole thing looks like a lumpy cake covered in sage green fondant. Every once in a while some force of nature cut the cake to reveal layers of coffee, chocolate, vanilla, and red velvet. It's stunning in a "Am I on Mars?" kind of way.

The next morning we woke up and went to the lodge about a quarter mile up the road where we got in a drift boat and fly fished our asses off with a guide from Crazy Rainbow. We caught rainbow trout exclusively, all of them in the 15 to 18 inch range. zson is pretty fishy—he always gets at least twice as many bites as I do and this day out was no different than normal. His cast isn’t great but he can mend and set really well. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on your world view) the rainbows in the North Platte are so big and strong that they are more likely to pull zson into the water than he is to pull them into the boat. Ben, the guide, and I helped him finish off his fish. zson adopted the practice of kissing fish before releasing them.

We slept in the cabin that night and checked out downtown Casper the next morning (Friday). Casper is a funny little city. The population is only 55,000 but it has a college, an arena, a planetarium, several museums and lots of other stuff. Almost every man over 60 had a cowboy hat and boots, Wrangler jeans, and a big silver belt buckle commemorating some event involving cattle and/or horses. The vibe is old and hardscrabble mixed with right-wing patriotism. Here are some signs we saw in a diner.

If Casper was a singer it would be Merle Haggard.



That said, everyone we met was super friendly and interested to hear about life in New Jersey. Crazy Rainbow is affiliated with Ugly Bug Fly Shop, so we stopped by the shop and booked another half-day of fishing for the upcoming Sunday (I specifically didn't plan anything after Saturday because I wasn't sure what we would want to do, so we winged it from there). We also checked out Lou Taubert Ranch Outfitters, which is “One of the Nation's Leading Western Stores" according to their shopping bags, and a t-shirt store in which we bought University of Wyoming Cowboys gear: a shirt for zdaughter and socks for zwoman (cut us some slack, zson is eight).

Then we climbed aboard our plastic SUV and drove north for two hours, listening to Willie's Roadhouse, Outlaw Country, and Bluegrass Junction until we arrived in Thermopolis.

Stay tuned for further installments later this week.