Badass Chronicles

I'm reading Susan Casey's The Wave, an examination of the phenomenon of enormous waves from the perspectives of scientists, merchant mariners, and tow surfers. Alpha male Laird Hamilton is featured prominently in the book. Hamilton's ride of Teahupoo, a notoriously dangerous Tahitian break, detailed in this video lives in legend as one of the seminal moments in big-wave surfing history. It's also preposterously cool.